Lisbon on seven hills

First impressions

Lisbon won me over with its light. At five in the afternoon the sun hits the tiled façades sideways and the whole city turns golden. I stayed in Graça, so every day began and ended with a steep climb — and with a pastel de nata as the reward.

I rode tram 28 on the very first day, squeezed between tourists and older ladies coming back from the market. It's worth doing once; after that, you're better off walking up and finding the little stairways the map doesn't show.

Alfama, fado and saudade

On a rainy Tuesday I walked into a tiny fado house in Alfama. Twelve tables, dim light, and a woman in a black shawl singing as if her life depended on it. I missed half the metaphors, but I understood everything.

Belém and the river

Belém deserves a full day: the Jerónimos Monastery, the Belém Tower and, of course, the queue for the original pastéis. I cycled back along the Tagus to Cais do Sodré, stopping at LX Factory for a coffee.

Sintra

The day trip to Sintra was the most fairy-tale day of the trip. Pena Palace looks like it was drawn by a child with a box of crayons, and Quinta da Regaleira, with its initiation well, is pure mystery. I ended the afternoon at Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point of mainland Europe, looking out over the Atlantic — and thinking that Fortaleza was right there on the other side.